Belarko Wildlife Viewing Area, a partnership between BC Parks and the Nuxalk Nation

On a crisp fall afternoon, my colleagues and I pulled into the Belarko Wildlife Viewing Area off Highway 20, about 40 minutes east of Bella Coola. It was the first time that any of us had been to this park, and we were excited to see nan, which means grizzly bears in Nuxalk, in their natural habitat. When we stepped out of the car and walked over to the entry kiosk, we were greeted by Qw’litqana, a Nuxalkmc (person of the Nuxalk Nation) who is hired to work alongside BC Parks rangers at the viewing area. Her warm welcome was followed by a short list of rules to follow when we are at the viewing platform. After checking that we agree to follow the rules and accept the risk of proceeding, she radioed Anuspuxmlayc, the Nuxalkmc who was staffing the platform. After they both check that the coast is clear of bears, we were then let through and proceeded to walk toward the fenced-in viewing platform.  

The viewing platform is constructed with split rail cedar fencing, which is also electrified. This keeps people contained to a small area, which both keeps people safe and allows grizzly bears to feed undisturbed – fattening up for winter. BC Parks staff and Nuxalk staff work at the platform to provide interpretive services and answer visitor questions. Interpretive signs (about bears and Nuxalk cultural teachings) are also installed on the posts of the roofed areas, which kept us busy while we patiently waited for a grizzly to amble by. We were blessed with good timing. Shortly after we arrived at the platform, another park visitor pointed out a massive bear that slowly strolled out of some bushes downstream. Anuspuxmlayc let us know that the best time for sightings is at either dawn or dusk.  

Heeding Anuspuxmlayc’s advice, I set my alarm for 5:45 the next morning and set out with the rangers who start their shifts to prepare for the 7 am opening. Safely enclosed in the viewing platform, I stroll to the end and look downstream. Peering over the fence, almost as if promised, I see a sow with her two cubs feeding on salmon right below me. What an experience it was to watch bears tearing pieces off the fish that they just caught. Although I was exploding with joy internally, I kept quiet and observed them for a couple minutes in awe before pulling out my camera to document the moment. After finishing their salmon, the sow slowly led her playful cubs downstream and into the surrounding forest, and I was once again alone at the viewing platform.  

The Belarko Wildlife Viewing Area at Tweedsmuir Park (South) is collaboratively managed by BC Parks and the Nuxalk Nation. Open from September 1 – 30 each year, the main objective of this viewing area is to increase the predictability of human behaviour along this section of the Atnarko River. This reduces the risk of potential injury to park visitors from bear encounters and leaves sections along the river that bears can feed undisturbed by humans. The staff also operate a bear monitoring program by counting the number of bears seen and monitoring the number of boats drifting down the Atnarko River. 

Prior to the establishment of the viewing platform, people participated in dispersed viewing along the Atnarko River. To protect grizzlies and protect conservation values, the Belarko Wildlife Viewing Platform was built in 2010. From 2010 to 2015, the program was supported primarily by BC Parks staff local to Bella Coola, rangers from other regions, and the Nuxalk Nation Guardians. In 2014, through increased collaboration between BC Parks and the Nuxalk Nation, two Nuxalk staff were hired to work at the viewing area for the month of September. From 2015 onwards, four Nuxalk staff have been hired each season.  

BC Parks staff based in Bella Coola have shared their immense gratitude for the opportunity to work alongside Nuxalk staff and Guardians. This partnership has provided important opportunities for BC Parks to learn from the Nuxalkmc about their stewardship and cultural practices, particularly in relation to their co-existence with bears. The entire season feels like family looking after each other, and the collaboration is the lifeline of the entire wildlife viewing program. 

In the 2023 season, over 3,300 people visited the Belarko Wildlife Viewing Area. These visitors came from all over B.C. and Canada, USA, Europe, Australia, Israel, and more! 

Blog written by Sherry Lu.